Chewing

Chewing is a normal behavior in dogs that is not only fun but also a tool for them to stay healthy. For a lot of dogs chewing is like therapy or a pacifier. Chewing on appropriate things will keep your dog occupied, his teeth and gums healthy and your home in order. As part of preparing for a new dog in our lives it is important to provide several different things to chew on. These should vary from hard chew bones (natural marrow bones or synthetic ones like “nylabones”), to softer ones that a dog may sink his teeth into (a stuffed animal or a rope toy), to interactive toys like a “kong” that you stuff with your dog’s treats. Never give your dog personal items like an old shoe or socks unless you are willing to have the new shoes or new socks chewed on as well. If you have children in your home make sure your children’s toys and your dog’s toys are kept separately and are not too similar. 

In some cases providing the right things to chew on may not be enough to deter our dogs from chewing on other things. We usually divide chewing into 3 different groups.

1. Chewing on large objects like furniture or walls, things you can’t move out of your puppy’s reach. For this behavior we use a combination of behavior modification techniques. First, the dog is not allowed near the object or room in which he is chewing the object without supervision. This means you may need puppy gates to block off certain areas of your home. When you are in these areas accompanied by your pup you must reward the dog for the correct behaviors. I like to keep them on a leash at first so i can see their every move. If the puppy approaches, lets say the couch, and doesn’t try to start chewing on it I say “good dog” and maybe even give him a treat or provide one of those fabulous things we mentioned above to chew on. Like this our pups learn that they can be in the same room and behave appropriately.

As you are able to trust that your dog won’t start to chew on things he can earn a little more freedom, still with supervision until he can just hang out in any room of your home.

2. Chewing on things that can be moved like shoes and socks. The very worst thing you can do with this one is to chase after the dog since this will turn into a super fun game for the dog. Instead of that we can do an exchange, so dog gives you the shoe and you give him a piece of ham. This I only do when the object in the dog’s mouth is either very special to you or harmful to the dog, good examples of this are $500 designer shoes and a box of rat poison.

If whatever is in the dogs mouth is just a dirty sock then try some of these other techniques. a) Ignore the dog completely, a lot of our dogs tend to grab inappropriate objects as a way of getting our attention. When instead of chasing after them we ignore them then the object is not fun anymore. b) Grab one of your dog’s toys and play with it yourself, start throwing it in the air and pretending its a very special and fun game. When your dog comes over thinking “hey, this sock is not that fun, mine is not squealing!!!”, continue to play and ignore the dog a bit until you see them release whatever is in their mouth and then allow them to play with the toy while you pick up the inappropriate object from the floor.

3. Chewing on humans is what we call nipping. There are many reasons for dogs to nip at humans.  A lot of our dogs nip as a way to interact with us like they would with other dogs.  Some dogs have also realized that nipping on you will get you up and noticing them. Then you have the ones who utilize nipping as a way to control your movements this is herding and while very useful out in a field with sheep it may be quite annoying if you are just trying to get around your home. One of the reasons we tend to forget is when they nip as their means to tell you that what you are doing is not ok with them. This last one is very important to consider, is my dog nipping because something hurts (like a nail trim or a certain painful part in their bodies), is my dog teething and therefore finds it hard to resist someone touching his face?  a) Depending on the dog this first technique may be very useful or not at all, you will know the very first time you try it. When the dog grabs a hold of your hand or any other body part, let out a loud scream. If the dog backs up immediately and looks worried, then this will probably work very well for this dog. If however, when you scream the dog backs up and then pounces ready for play, don’t try this again and just move on to one of our other suggestions. b) Exchanging your arm for an appropriate thing to chew on is a great technique but make sure you continue to hold on to the toy so it’s still interesting for a bit longer. c) For dogs that are herding you, sometimes just stopping can teach them that they won’t be able to control your movement. d) When nipping just won’t stop using the above methods then it is time for a time out. Time Out is in a place where our dog is safe, it can be a small bathroom or their crate. Somewhere where they can’t get into trouble but are away from you or whoever they were nipping on. The dog is not being punished, we are merely giving them a chance to settle down. The dog will go in for 5 minutes, at the end of those 5 minutes you let the dog back out and give them a chance to hang out, if they go back to the same behavior then they go back in for 10 minutes and the 15 if necessary. If after 15 minutes of time out your dog is still trying to chew on you then this dog has too much pent up energy and they need to move to get it out. At this point you will put a leash on the dog and go for a very brisk walk. No sniffing around the block or a chatting with the neighbor kind of stroll, but a short leash, moving fast to get all the energy out kind of walk.

Keep in mind that all dogs are different and that we are trying to help them through what may be a difficult time for them. If these techniques are not working for you then please contact us to get a more personalized analysis of the situation. 

Crate Training

Start by choosing the appropriate crate size for your dog. If it is a puppy then buy the size for the dog she will be when full grown and block off an area if needed. 

We need to show our pups that being in the crate is a great thing, this is their space.

Start by taking off the door to the crate or securing it open with a bungee cord. If the crate has more than one door open them all. This will allow for access at all times, letting your dog sniff around comfortably. 

Begin with a baggy of your dog’s favorite treats broken up into tiny pieces. Drop some in the crate. If your pup goes in, praise her and drop some more treats in there. Allow your dog to come out if she wants to. 

If she doesn’t go in, praise and feed any movement towards the crate; it can be the head turning towards the crate, a step in that direction or even just the eyes looking that way. Slowly encourage a little more by luring her with treats on the ground getting closer and closer to the crate until she puts her nose in. Praise and toss treats further away from the crate, this will allow your dog the confidence she needs to do this on her own. Repeat the luring process and this time end with one paw inside the crate, then two paws, then all four.

Once your pup goes in voluntarily you can start adding a cue like “crate”, “kennel” or “to bed”. Say the cue and wait, see if she moves towards the crate, if she does encourage with your voice and as she gets in, praise handsomely with treats. If she doesn’t go in on her own, then lure and still reward her effort with a few treats. Continue until every time you say the cue, she goes in voluntarily.

You are ready to attach the door back on or remove the bungee cords. Lure your dog into the crate, praise her and while she is eating the treats inside the crate close the door momentarily. Open it up again and let her come out. 

Slowly increase the time she is inside the crate, feeding treats through the door. Once she can stay in the crate comfortably for a few minutes, begin to go out of site. At this point you can leave a chew toy or bone inside the crate as entertainment for her. Eventually she will be so comfortable in her crate it will be one of her favorite places.

10 amazing benefits of doggie day camp

1. Exercise your dog - a tired dog tends not to get in so much trouble.
2. Socialize your dog with other dogs - your dog will learn to interact and play with others.
3. Socialize your dog with other humans - your pup will be accustomed to being handled by several different humans.
4. Entertain your dog - time away from home, breaks up the monotony of daily life for your pup.
5. Comfort your dog - when you need to leave town, your dog will be used to a boarding facility.
6. Teach your dog - your pup will learn how to share toys.
7. Give yourself peace of mind- your puppy won’t miss a meal or destroy the couch because you are stuck at work. 
8. Give yourself a clean house - no potty training accidents throughout the day.
9. Give yourself free time - run errands without worrying about your pup.
10. Give yourself a smooth transition - a great way to introduce a new dog into your family.
    

Disaster prep

Travel Plans

By planning your pet’s travel ahead of time, you can make your vacation or move a more relaxing experience for you and your pet.

1. HIRE A PET RELOCATION COMPANY

They are well versed in the necessary paperwork, regulations and requirements to safely transport your pet.

2.VISIT THE VETERINARIAN

Make an appointment for a check-up. Your pet should be microchipped and all vaccinations up to date. If you are traveling within the US, a health certificate from your vet dated within 10 days of departure and an original rabies certificate may be all you need. For travel outside the US additional planning and health care requirements will be necessary.

3. BUY A CARRIER

Whether your pet is a Chihuahua, Great Dane, or a parrot, there’s a pet carrier to match. Pets traveling in the cargo hold, will need a hard plastic carrier with holes for ventilation on all four sides, only one door and secured top to bottom with screws, not clips. Carriers must be big enough for your pet to stand, turn around and lie down comfortably, with at least 3 inches of room above his head. Snub nose breeds require even larger crates.

4.CAN I SEE SOME ID M’AAM?

Write your pet’s name on  carrier and include id tags with your home address and phone number, as well as the contact information of someone who can be reached at your destination. Carry a current photograph of your pet as well.

5.TAKE A TEST DRIVE

Animals travel under less stress when they are accustomed to their carrier before they travel. In the weeks prior to your trip, put your dog in his carrier as often as possible for trips around town. Make it a happy place to be by offering treats while he’s in his crate and encourage him to sleep in it.

6. EAT. DRINK. POOP. PLAY.

Since a full stomach might be uncomfortable for your pet during travel, we recommend feeding him about 12 hours before the flight. You can (and should) continue to offer water right up to the time of travel. Leave the dishes in the carrier in case an airline employee needs to provide your pet with food and water in the event of an extended delay before or after your flight. Exercise your pet and let him use the facilities (i.e.grass) before heading to the airport.

7.ARRIVE EARLY

But not too early. Have your pet’s health documents handy. Check-in time and location will be dependent on how your pet is flying. Know the rules of your chosen airline. Passengers with pets must check-in at the counter; curbside and self service check-in are not allowed.

8. (DON’T) TAKE A VALIUM

We don’t mind if you take a valium before the flight, but don’t give your pet tranquilizers just because you are nervous. Pets should not be given these medications because they can create respiratory and cardiovascular problems as the pet is exposed to increased altitude pressures. They can also alter the animal’s natural ability to balance and maintain equilibrium.

BOXER

Boxers were originally a hunting dog, however throughout the years they have become a great companion, police and military dog. Boxers are a direct result of a mid nineteenth-century crossing between a Bullenbeisser (now extinct) and a Bulldog. They have very muscular bodies, a thick, deep well developed chest, drop ears that naturally incline forward a noticeable underbite, wrinkles on the forehead and muzzle, and a long whiplike tail. Unfortunately their ears are sometimes cropped and tail can sometimes be docked. 

They have a short, glossy flat coat that sheds minimally and needs to be brushed lightly. Most Boxers are fawn and brindle mixed with some white, though there are all white Boxers, these are prone to allergies and other medical issues. Their nails need to be kept quite short and they have a bouncy yet powerful gait. They are squarely built and range from 60 to 80 lbs. They need a well balanced diet as this breed has a tendency to be overweight and can have gastrointestinal sensitivities. 

Due to the breed’s short snout care must be taken when temperatures start rising. They tend not to do very well in very hot or very cold weather.

Boxers can be quite a handful when they are not exercised and trained adequately. Remember they got their name due to their tendency to stand on their back legs and bat with their front paws, appearing to box. They love a large fenced yard to romp around in and, once trained, are a loving, loyal family dog.

Weimaraner

The Weimaraner is a breed long treasured by the aristocrats of Weimar, Germany. It used to be known as the Weimar Pointer. They are believed to be descendants of the Bloodhound and were bred to hunt large animals like bears and deer. Though in modern times they are used as bird dogs because they have a soft bite.

They are referred to as the “grey ghost”.

They are agile and speedy, they need lots of exercise. 

They need space and good management of exercise. This is not a good dog for apartment life unless you are able to take them for long, energetic runs and keep them entertained with a lot of toys and things to do throughout the day. When this dog is bored it can be destructive.

Training is essential, it should start early and continue well into adulthood. When properly trained they make a good guard dog and excellent hunter of small and large animals. Lack of training and exercise will make them aggressive and difficult. Professional training is ideal in addition to ordinary home training.

Weimaraners have an excellent sense of smell, are gentle, brave and quick.

They are graceful and assertive, this dog has an aristocratic air.

Weimaraners’ coat is short, straight, shiny and is grey to silver; though you can also find blacks and blues. They only need occasional brushing, otherwise known as a zoom groom. 

Males should be between 57 and 77 lbs, while females run 55 to 70 lbs. They have a straight back and well developed chest, their tails are generally docked six inches from the tail joint.

This breed loves children and is very tolerant, they want to be around humans and other dogs, which can make them quite needy.

Labrador retriever

Labs are the most popular breed of dog in the US, Australia, Canada, New zealand and the UK.

Labradors are originally from Newfoundland Island in Canada but they are now bred almost all over the world.

Originally fishermen used them to assist in carrying ropes between boats and pulling out nets and stray fish from the water. Labradors have webbed feet that help them swim, and swim they will. They love water!

They have a great sense of smell, are excellent at retrieving and very patient which has made them the top dog used as guide dog for the blind and assistance for the disabled, great for search and rescue and narcotics detection in law enforcement. 

Labs have been loyal hunting companions to humans for years. 

Labradors are able to endure long hours of training but it’s not a good idea to keep them in small apartments. They have a tendency to over eat so it is important to keep them on a balanced diet and regular vigorous exercise is recommended.

Labradors are good companions to children and other dogs and they love to work and socialize.

Puppies are born with adult coloration which is usually yellow, black or chocolate brown. Their coat is thick and short with no wave which they shed seasonally. Females are usually between 55 and 70 lbs and males 60 to 75 lbs.

Go to your spot

Every dog needs his own spot – a place you can send him to rest, or when he’s begging at the table. You can have just one spot, you can have several that work with the same verbal cue, or you can have a different cue for each location. “Place” could mean the one in the kitchen, “spot” can be the one in the dinning room; “there” can be his bed in the bedroom. Your dog’s “place” mat is portable. You can take it with you to your favorite coffee shop so your pup can lie comfortably under the table. You can take it to your friend’s house for a sleep over. Your dogs ‘spot” is a little piece of home that he can take anywhere, helping him feel more comfortable in strange places.

Select a dog bed or a rug that is easily portable. Stand about 2 feet away from the mat with your dog next to you. With a treat in your hand, point to the rug, say “spot” or whatever you are going to call it, lure him onto it with the treat. Once all 4 paws are on the rug “click” and treat. You can use the verbal cue from the start in this exercise because you are almost sure that he will follow the treat onto the mat.

After several repetitions starts asking for a sit on the mat before you give the treat, then ask for a down. Ultimately you want “go to your spot” to mean “go lie down on the mat”. You can also frequently ask your pup to “wait” while lying on the mat. If you reward him occasionally just for lying on the mat he’ll learn that “on the mat” is a great place to be.

When you think your dog is starting to get the idea say “spot” and wait a few seconds to see if he moves towards the mat. If he does be sure to be right behind him to “click” and jackpot when he gets there.

Gradually start moving farther and farther from the spot, until you can send him to it from the other side of the room. If he needs a little extra encouragement, place a couple of treats on the mat so when he gets there he finds a little surprise.

Maggie and Annabel are two lovely Scottish Fold cats that came to visit for a few days. The Scottish Fold are a breed of cat with a natural dominant-gene mutation that affects cartilage. This is easily perceived in their ears, which bend forward. The original Scottish Fold was a white barn cat called Susie found in a farm in Scotland. When Susie had kittens, 2 of them had folded ears so a cat enthusiast started breeding them and registered them in Great Britain in the 60’s. Most Scottish Folds today share a common ancestry to Susie. Over the years they have been bred to minimize the difficulties associated with their genetic mutation.

Since it can affect cartilage all over the body, it is important to get them from a very reputable breeder, if not they can have very serious health issues. These cats can be either long or short haired, and they can have nearly any color or combinations of colors including white. Scottish fold are usually good-natured and placid, they can be quite playful and need companionship. They have soft voices that include all sorts of sounds not usually heard in other cats. The typical life span for them is about 15 years. They tend to adapt to life with other animals quite easily, so they do well in a multi species family.

Valentine's offer

Lini

 Your dog’s birthday:   March 2^nd 

How did you obtain your dog: 

We adopted him from the Dallas Humane Society  

How old was your dog when you got him/her?

 1 ½ years old

Your dog’s favorite food: 

Sour Cream

Cutest thing your dog does: 

A mid-air twist while jumping

 Smartest thing your dog does:

Lini stays away from our other dog when she has crazy eyes.

Fun Fact: He’s a joker